Early rise for Inverness bike ride taking in hidden history below loch surface
ACTIVE OUTDOORS: John Davidson heads out before breakfast to make the most of the quiet roads and glorious sunshine on South Loch Ness-side
Truth be told, I’m not an early morning person. At least, not in reality. I love the idea of getting up with the birds and enjoying a run or a bike ride first thing, before the rest of the world stirs.
But invariably it just doesn’t happen – even on those occasions when I dare to set my alarm, the chances are I can very easily talk myself into whacking the snooze button and getting a few more hours’ sleep.
This time, though, it was my only chance in another busy weekend of getting some “me time” and fitting in any sort of real exercise. I had to get up.
So, with my biking clothes laid out beside the bed for me to just fall into, I managed to get myself up bright and breezy. A glorious forecast of bright sunshine and next-to-no wind certainly helped the motivation, as well – you don’t get too many days like that when you can get outdoors.
I’d even prepped the road bike the night before, so I was soon starting the watch and pedalling towards the Essich roundabout in Inverness, where this route begins. From there it heads past Knocknagael – where a community buyout is in progress to bring growing space, allotments, an orchard and woodland to give some valuable green space to an ever-expanding corner of Inverness – then up the hill to Essich.
It’s always a bit of a pull up here but I was ready for it, already knowing I’d made the right choice to fall out of bed rather than back to sleep. I turned left, signed for Dunlichity and Bunachton, at the farm, climbing further past the substation and under a line of pylons onto the moor.
Otherworldly is how I sometimes describe the feeling up here. Within half an hour of leaving the city’s suburbs behind on your bike, you are on quiet country roads surrounded by farms and crofts. The pace seems to match, as you can let your mind be free of the day-to-day pressures and just enjoy the space.
Although, having said that, part of the reason I was out so early was that we had family plans for the rest of this Sunday, so I didn’t have time to linger any longer than necessary. There’s no rest for the wicked!
Passing Bunachton, I headed down the twisting descent to Dunlichity – only to be confronted by a large tractor chugging up the hill. Modern bike brakes are a true gift, and I managed to easily slow down and cut into a safe spot without any drama.
At the T-junction, the route goes right then left opposite the old kirk at Dunlichity, following the narrow road to Brin.
To give an indication of how quiet this particular stretch of road was, as I rounded a corner I saw a hare sitting happily in the middle of it – until it spotted me coming and scarpered at a pace I don’t think I could have matched even on my roadie tyres!
The road crosses the River Nairn before reaching the B851, where a right turn leads past Brin Rock, the steep mass over to the right, and then a country hotel.
Leave the main road at Croachy, where a sign points right between houses to the RSPB reserve at Loch Ruthven. This narrow road goes back over the River Nairn before wriggling round a property at Elrig, then heading straight for the rocky outcrop of Stac Gorm, a wonderful little hill that rises to 430m on the south side of the loch.
Loch Ruthven is a haven for the Slavonian grebe, one of very few breeding spots for the red-listed diver, which is described by the Wildlife Trusts as “a very rare nesting bird in Scotland”.
Below the surface, the loch also hides some secrets from the past. There’s a crannog marked on the map and visible as a small island at the western end of the water, but at the eastern end another is hidden just under the usual water level.
This scheduled monument is said to have cultural significance and to be of national importance in terms of helping our understanding of how people lived in the area a couple of thousand years ago.
Historic Environment Scotland’s designation for the site says: “Through comparison with the other crannog in this loch, as well as others, this crannog has the potential to inform upon changes in the techniques of crannog construction and site location from later prehistory to the Middle Ages.
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“The surrounding landscape contains a large number of later prehistoric settlements. By placing this crannog within its wider landscape, study of this monument there has the potential to contribute to an understanding of the wider social and cultural contexts of crannog occupation.”
It’s fascinating to think of the vast changes in how people have lived and their connection to the land (and water) that is so often lost on us modern humans. I find that getting out and learning more about the places I ride, walk and run is a way to help understand and to some extent continue this connection.
The road continues past the small car park for the RSPB reserve then above the loch. At the far end of the water it leads down a series of hairpin bends to pass the climbing spot of Creag nan Clag then skirts the tip of Loch Duntelchaig before a short, sharp pull to the B862.
Turning right, I followed this until the turn-off for the Essich road, where you have a choice. Straight on leads to Dores and the return to Inverness while a right turn here leads to Loch Ashie. I opted for the latter choice, reaching the crossroads and turning left down the Macbain hill before heading back to Inverness via the back road to Scaniport, a brief section of cycle lane and the Torbreck road that leads back to the Essich roundabout on the edge of town.
On my return there were lots of cyclists heading out, while I had that rare glow of knowing I’d already been out there for a couple of hours before breakfast. Now, time to put the kettle on.
Route details
Loch Ruthven cycle
Distance 25 miles / 41 km
Terrain Minor roads and short section on surfaced cycle path
Start/finish Essich roundabout, Inverness
Map OS Landranger 26; OS Explorer 416 & 417
The early bird catches the sun on a bright spring morning on the road bike
Click here to see the route in OS Maps
